Fabric astd in loom employed in



Feb. 23 1926.

c. B. CHASE FABRIC AND IN LOOM EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF FiledNov. 6 192 W 2 Sheets-Sheet I. 3 .z. 3 T 1 if] 17\ i /16EIIEZJEIETJHEHEI] EIIHIIJHEIHCZUEZUEZJ' mmmmmmm' 3 $7367? 3 M {$01M flu;155 worna q,

Patented Feb. 23, 1926.

UNITED STATES PATENT ()FlFICE.

CHARLES BURDEN CHASE, OF FALL RIVER, MASSACHUSETTS.

FABRIC AND IN LOOM EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF.

Application filed November 6, 1924.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, CHARLES Bonner; CHASE, a citizen of the UnitedStates, residing at Fall River, in the county of Bristol and State ofMassachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inFabrics and in Looms Employed in the Manufacture Thereof, of which thefollowing is a specification, reference being bad .10 therein to theaccompanying drawings.

My invention relates to fabrics and the manufacture thereof, made up ofa figure or a plain warp, a crinkle warp, and a weft; and particularlyand broadly to a fabric that may have a longitudinal stripe of greateror less length made up of alternate sections of crinkle weave andjacquard figure, or plain weave.

To point out in a general way, the state of the art, I will refer to thebedspread art. A number of years ago, anew bedspread was developedcalled a crinkle spread. It was of cottolnand made from two warps andone weft; one warp being the jacquard or figured warp: the other being"a crinkled warp. It hadalternate longitudinal strlpes about an inchwide, of jacquard or dobby figure, and crinkle. This design extendedacross the fabric from selvage to selvage. The crinkle was obtained byusing a vibrator. over which the crinkle warp passed. The vibrator,being attached by a long bar to the lay in the front of the loom, and tothe frame at the rear ot the loom by a spring, moved forward with thelay, and back by the pull of thespring, with the lay, with the resultthat the crinkle warp was let in faster than the other or the jacquardwarp, and a crinkle or fluted effect 'was produced in the woven crinklewarp. These crinkle spreads were manufactured as piece-goods, and cutoft in any desired lengths.

I have made these spreads, and also spreads with a' crinkle centre orbed-top part of the spread, with a jacquard border from the patternwarp, on the sidesot the quilt. Such latter spreads are madeaspiece-goods, and cut the desired lengtln But it isto be noted that suchspreads have no pattern border acrossthe ends of the spreads; that tor'tha-t, reasomthey do notappear complete a design rtlnt seem inifin ed; d

Serial No. 748,059.

to be made and sold by the yard, at so much 1 81,75.

Now the principal object of my invention is to weave a jacquard or aplain border across the end of a crinkle fabric, and I at tain thisobject by controlling the operation of the vibrator mechanism which, aspre viously stated, tightens and loosens the crinkle warp, to producethe crinkle fabric. To stop the crinkle weave, I throw the vibrator outof operation, the crinkle warp at once tightening up, and thuseliminating the crinkle, and becoming the tight tension of the jacquardfigure or plain warp. the loom at once beginning to weave the desiredacquard or figure or plain end-border, from what was, when loosened, thecrinkle warp. but now is a pattern or plain warp. To repeat the crinkleweave, the vibrator may be thrown into operative connection with thelay, the warp ends becoming seasonably loosened and the crinkle weaveimmediately appearing in the woven fabric.

In short, I change, when desired, a warp from a crinkle warp into afigure or a plain warp or vice versa. i

F or the sake' ot making clear my inventron, I will consider it asen'lployed in weaving); a bedspread having; alternate crinkle andfigured stripes, and a figured border on both sides and ends.

In the drawings illustrating the 'irinciple of my invention and the bestmode now known to me of embodying the same in operative structure,

Fig. 1 is a somewhat dianrammatic drawinp, showing my invention in sideelevation. the vibrator mechanism being discormcctcd from the lay of theloom:

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing said. mechanism in operative engagementwith the lay;

Fig. is an enlarged cross-section on line 3-3 Fig. 2;

Fig. at is an enlarged cross-section on line l -40f Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged perspective view of guide-plate for vibrator bar;

Fig. 6 shows in plan, a bedspread having alternate crinkle and figuredstripes, and a "figured border on sides and ends;

7 shows a bedspread; of lattice (1 Sign, the bars of which are a plainweave, while the spaces between are a crinkle weave.

The loom here shown has the usual crinkle warp 1 and beam 2, and figuredwarp f5 and beam at, vibrator 5, leaserods 6, hcddles 7, lay 8, clothbreast 9 and roll 10.

The vibrator is pivotally mounted in the frame 1O of the loom, and hasone arm 11 secured to a spring 1.2, fastened to said frame, and anopposite arm 13 having pivotally connected thereto, a vibrator bar 142notched at 15, on its under side near its free end portion, and'trce toslide in a slotted guide plate 16., fast to the top of the reed fixed tothe lay 8.

A spring-lock plate 1'? fixed to the arch of the frame, and has, at itslower portion, a pin 18 upon which the vibrator bar 1& rests wheninoperative, as in Fig. 1.

The heddles 7 are operated by a jacquard mechanism 19 which has itsusual cardcylinder 20, heddle hooks 21, needles 22, and gritlblades 23for operating the hooks; also a series of cards 23 for operating theheddles required by the design. It is to be remembered here, thatthrough simple but well understood apparatus, not shown, the jacquardmechanism operates upon each pick.

In the end portion of each card, as 2st, of the pattern designcorresponding to the picks calling for a change in the design, from acrinkle weave to a plain or a figured weave, or vice versa, is punched astop vibrator hole 25 to receive a stop needle 26 which. controls thevibrator barhook 27, so that the latter is lifted by a griftblade 28whenever a card, as 24, with a stop-vibrator hole 25, is presented tothe needle 25; and, consequently, when the vibrator bar 14, connected tothe hook by a coil spring 29 and a cord 80, is raised,the notch 15becoming disengaged from the base of the slot in the guide plate 16 onthe lay, and, when raised enough, becomes locked in raised position by apin 18, Fig. 4, in the spring lock plate 17, the pin snapping under thebottom of the vibrator bar. But the moment the vibrator bar disengagesthe lay, the vibrator ceases to operate, the spring 12 pulling thevibrator arm 11 back against astop 31, Fig. 1; and the tension in thecrinkle warp becomes and remains as taut as the figure or plain warpindicated in Fig. 1; the crinkle warp dis appears, and a figured or aplain weave be gins, as at a, Fig. 6, or at t, Fig. 7, and continuesuntil the design calls for a repetition of the crinkle weave, at at a,Fig. 6, or at c, Fig. 7. But the moment that call is made, astart--vibrator hole 32, Fig. 1, in the card corresponding to the newpick, receives av start-needle 33 which controls the start 'vi-' bratorbar hook Bet, connected by a cord to the lock-plate 17, so that thevibrator bar hook is lifted by the griiifblade 36, and

consequently the lock plate 17 Fig. 3, with its lock pin 18, is movedout ardly, the pin moving away from the vibrator bar, which at oncedrops its notched end engaging the plate 16, Fig. 2, on the lay; thevibrator al ternately tightening and loosening the crinkled warp threadsupon each back and forward movement of the lay, as shown in Fig. 2; andthe loom. again weaving the crinkle weave.

The notch 15 in the vibrator bar, and the position of the stop 31 forthe vibrator arm, are so positioned that the movement of the lay movesthe vibrator bar forward and back only a fraction of an inch enough forthe teiision,tight or loosewanted.

It will be obvious that by tl'lti'lIlBCllitl'llSH] abovedescribed thefabric, as a bedspread, having a crinkle weave with a figured design onsides and ends, repeated as shown in Fig. 6, may be woven and later cut,as on the line 38, to "form the spreads of the right length.

Further, a fabric having crinkle weave sections separated transverselyby a plain section may be woven, embodied as in a bedspread illustratedin Fig. 7. This spread has plain instead of figured edges and ends, andmay be cut up, as at lines 39, in'such lengths as may be desired.

It will now be plain, that my purpose is to provide means whereby aplain weave or a I figured weave may be changed to acrinkle weave, orvice versa, when wished, and I do so by using a jacquard mechanism tomove the vibrator bar into or out of operative engagement with the layfor the purpose of causing the vibrator to loosen or to tighten thecrinkle warp when required.

It is to be understood, that I do not limit my invention to using ajacquard mechanism for indicating and lifting a start hook or a stophook respectively connected to the vibrator bar and to the spring lockplate. Any other equivalent mechanism comes withinthe spirit of myinvention. In fact, simple manipulation of the vibrator bar couldconceivably accomplish the results brought about by the above-mentionedjacquard or similar mechanisms, and a vibrator bar capable of suchmanipulation would embody the broad purview of my invention.

The resulting fabric is new, and its novolty resides in having a crinkleweave or stripe 24, Figs. 6 and 7, of fabric, interrupted or followed bya different weave or figured fabric a, Fig. 6, or a plain fabric a, Fig.7. As the'crinkle warp is let in faster than the jacquard or plain warp,to form the crinkle, obviously, inch for inch, the portion of warp usedup by the crinkle weave is longer than the remaining portion used in thejacquard or the plain weave. For-eXa'mple, if the space a between thecrinkle sections 10 m, Fig. 7, 1s one inch, thenif the last inch of thecrinkle a: and the 1110119? plain weave 2 were woven, there would be twodifferent weaves following from two ditfercnt tensions given in sequenceupon the same warp, as by the ahove-described mechanism.

Desiring to protect my invention in the broadest manner legallypossible, what I claim is:

1. In a loom, a lay; a warp beam; a vibrator to tighten and to loosenthe warp, to weave a crinkle fabric; an operative connection betweensaid lay and said vibrator, that may be broken or completed when desiredto change from a crinkle to another weave, or vice versa.

2. In a loom, a lay; a warp beam; a vibrator to tighten and to loosenthe warp to weave a-crinkle weave; means tofconnectmg and disconnectingthe vibrator and the lay when desired, to weave and not to weave acrinkle weave.

3. In a loom, a lay; a warp beain; a vibrator to engage the warp fromthe beam; a pivotedvibrator operated in one direction by a spring; a barpivoted to the vibrator. and having a notch, to fall into engagementwith said lay; a spring bolt to secure or release said bar; mechanism,not only seasonably to lift said bar out of engagement with said lay andstop the oscillation of said vibrator, and cause the crinkle weave tocease, and a different weave having a warp With tight tension to besubstituted, the

spring bolt engaging the bar and holding it out of engagement with saidlay; but seasonably to release said bar to fall into operativeengagement with said lay and to cause the vibrator again to oscillate tocause the weave to change to the crinkle weave to repeat the design.

l. In a looni, a lay; a warp beam for a crinkle warp; a warp beam for adifferent warp; a pivoted vibrator over which the crinkle warp passes; aspring to operate the vibrator in one direction; a bar pivoted to thevibrator, and having a notch near its free end, to fall into engagementwith said lay; a spring bolt to hold or to release said bar; mechanismnot only connected to said bar to lift said bar out of engagement withsaid lay and into engagen'ient with said spring bolt, stop theoscillation oi the vibrator, and the tightening and loosening of thecrinkle warp, and giving said latter warp the tension of the differentwarps for a weave different from that of the crinkle weave; but alsoconnected with said spring bolt to releaee seasonably later said bar. tofall into operative engagement with said ay and ease the vibrator torenew its oscillalions and cause the weave to change to the crinkleweave and repeat the design.

In testimony whereof I hereunto ailix my signature.

CHARLES BURDEN CHASE,

